Care Guide - Texan Tan Tarantula
- Aphonopelma anax -

IUCN Status 2024

Data collected from iucnredlist.org

Disclaimer - This guide is a colmination of my own experiences and online research to provide what i believe is the best care for my own animals, the principles below work for me in my enviroment and location so bear in mind changes might be needed for your own care requirements and always do thorough research from multiple sources before commiting to rescuing , adopting or buying an animal.
Overview
The Texan Tan Tarantula is a captivating new-world species known for its striking appearance. Typically, it features a dark to light brown body complemented by a creamy-colored carapace. This slow-moving, terrestrial tarantula stands out with its short-haired, velvety texture, making it a fascinating addition to any arachnid enthusiast's collection.
Rating - (Ease of care) - Very Easy - ★☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
Cost type | Outright costs | Ongoing costs | Total lifetime cost xx - xx years |
---|---|---|---|
Animal cost | |||
Setup | |||
Substrates | |||
Energy cost (2024) | |||
Livefoods | |||
Total | Total outright | Total ongoing yearly | Lifetime cost |
Distribution:
The Texan Tan Tarantula is primarily found in Texas, though its range also extends into parts of Oklahoma and northern Mexico.

Little Lake Acres Colonia -Texas

Setup Requirements
The Texan Tan Tarantula is a medium-sized species that can grow up to approximately 6 inches. As an adult, it requires a minimum enclosure size of 30x30x30 cm. When younger, you can begin with a smaller sling pot and gradually increase the enclosure size to match the tarantula's growth stages after each molt. This species is known for its slow growth, often taking several years to reach its full size.
Substrate Options and Décor
For adult tarantulas, a sand-based substrate works well, as they thrive in lower humidity levels of 50% or less. However, for slings, it’s recommended to use a moisture-retaining substrate like coco coir to maintain slightly higher humidity. This helps prevent dehydration, as younger tarantulas are more sensitive to drying out.
Desert sand

Coco Coir

Heating and Lighting:
Tarantulas are comfortable in temperatures ranging from 22°C to 27°C. I personally keep my room heated to 22°C, and during the summer, it naturally fluctuates to around 27°C, so additional heating is unnecessary in my case. However, if you find that supplemental heating is required, it’s important to use a heat mat instead of a heat lamp. Heat lamps can quickly dehydrate and harm your tarantula. Place the heat mat on one side of the enclosure (not underneath) to create a temperature gradient. This setup allows your tarantula to regulate its body temperature by moving to its preferred spot within the enclosure.
Heat mat
Heatstat


Diet and Nutrition:
Feeding tarantulas is straightforward. For slings (0.5–2 cm), I recommend feeding them fruit flies every 3–5 days. Alternatively, monitor the tarantula's abdomen and adjust feeding based on its metabolism and growth needs. As they grow (4–7 cm), transition to small or medium-sized crickets or locusts, offering 1–2 prey items every 5–7 days. Once they reach the subadult stage, feeding can be reduced to once every two weeks, providing 2–3 large crickets or medium locusts. This feeding schedule usually remains the same throughout their adult life.
You can also vary their diet with alternative food options, such as:
- Waxworms
- Morio worms
- Mealworms
- Black crickets
- Dubia roaches
- Silkworms
It’s also a good idea to offer a small water dish. For adults, refill it once a week; for younger tarantulas, refill it a few times per week. They will use it as needed, ensuring they stay hydrated, especially if their food doesn’t provide enough moisture.
Water Dish

Behaviors -
These creatures are like a "pet rock" in many ways. They spend most of the day remaining idle and only move around their enclosure when they feel like it. Their most fascinating behaviors can be observed during feeding and shedding. When hunting, they capture their prey by wrapping it in their fangs, and during shedding, they often flip upside down, making the process quite captivating to watch. Other than these moments, they tend to stay very still. They’re an excellent choice if you’re looking for a low-maintenance pet with a unique and intriguing appearance.
Day and Night Cycle: A 12-hour day-night cycle is generally effective for tarantulas. Below, we’ve included one of the regions they originate from, providing a more accurate representation of their natural day-night rhythm. This can be beneficial for the tarantula's long-term well-being. During the winter months (October to March), daylight typically ranges from 11 to 12 hours, while in the summer months (April to September), it shifts to around 10 to 11 hours of daylight.

Data collected from timeanddate.com
Common Health Issues
Stuck Shed
A stuck shed is one of the most common health challenges for tarantulas, often caused by dehydration during the shedding process. When a tarantula lacks sufficient hydration, the thin liquid layer that facilitates shedding may not form properly, preventing a complete molt. If your tarantula struggles with a stuck shed for several days, you can assist, but it’s vital to first understand their body language to avoid stressing or provoking them. Ideally, consult an exotic veterinarian for assistance before attempting it yourself. To prevent stuck sheds, always provide a small, clean water dish and ensure it remains filled. This helps the tarantula regulate its hydration effectively.
Chemical Poisoning & Environmental Issues
These issues are sometimes broadly referred to as Dyskinetic Syndrome (DKS). However, it’s important to note that DKS is a symptom, not a specific diagnosis. Symptoms include uncoordinated, jerky movements, an inability to eat, and general loss of motor control. Environmental factors and chemical exposure are often the root causes of these symptoms. To address this, begin by inspecting the tarantula's environment and remove any potential chemical risks. Common culprits include exposure to flea treatments used on cats and dogs or scented products like incense and candles, which can be harmful to invertebrates. Keeping treated pets away from the tarantula and avoiding the use of such products in the home can often resolve or prevent these issues.
Cleaning -
Thanks to the low humidity in the environment, frequent cleaning isn't necessary. However, if you notice tarantula feces, use tongs to safely remove and dispose of it. The substrate can be replaced as needed—there’s no strict schedule for this. Personally, I recommend replacing it about once a year or when it starts to look dirty. While cleaning, avoid placing your hand near the spider unless you are confident in reading its body language to prevent unnecessary stress or risks.
Brumation - These creatures do not undergo a brumation period. They maintain consistent activity levels throughout the year, often staying out in the open as adults. They tend to remain stationary unless food is present, which prompts movement.
Availability: These spiders are typically wild-caught as adults and imported to the UK. Captive-bred specimens are rare and seldom seen at shows or in pet shops. However, adult wild-caught individuals are fairly common and often available on websites like The Spider Shop. As with all wild-caught species, it would be beneficial for the hobby to encourage a shift towards captive breeding. The main challenges seem to be their slow growth rate and their lack of widespread popularity as pets, based on current trends observed as of 2024.
Gallery -
Enjoy The Guide, have some feedback, feel free to comment and rate below.
Add comment
Comments