Care Guide - Berber Skinks

Can they be Cohabilitated? -

Yes, it’s quite common to keep them in groups of three. However, there are a few key points to consider. When housed together, they typically establish a dominance hierarchy. It’s important to monitor their interactions closely, either in person or via CCTV cameras, and to have a spare enclosure ready during the initial weeks to prevent potential conflicts. Minor scuffles without significant harm are normal in the first few days and usually subside as they adjust. From my own observations, there doesn’t appear to be any noticeable difference in this behavior between genders.

What size do they get? -

These medium-sized lizards typically grow to a length of 12–18 inches. The size difference between males and females is minimal, with variations generally attributed to individual differences. Thanks to their manageable size, they’re an excellent choice for first-time skink owners, as they don’t require much space to thrive.

When will i see them? -

As a diurnal species, these lizards are most active during the day. From my observations, they typically remain awake and active between 8:00 AM and 12:00 PM. After midday, they tend to rest, likely due to the intense heat in their natural habitat, which prompts them to retreat and burrow. Occasionally, they reappear later in the afternoon, usually between 3:00 PM and 5:00 PM, often basking in their preferred hot spot.

Costs to keep -

How much will it roughly cost you to keep an individual Berber skink well including the setup and ongoing costs, this does not include unexpected vet bills or the rising cost of products over time.

Used for energy calculation : https://www.sust-it.net/energy-calculator.php

Distribution:

This species has a broad range spanning the northern regions of the Middle East and the northern parts of Africa. They are frequently observed in areas such as Israel and Jordan, with numerous sightings documented on platforms like iNaturalist. Based on these observations, there appear to be noticeable variations in their patterns, particularly in the consistency of the orange banding on their heads and bodies there is likely to be subspecies of these animals that are not commonly reffered to as.

Image captured from iNaturalist

Below, you'll notice a striking contrast between the environments they inhabit. One example is Wadi Musa in Jordan, characterized by an arid, rocky desert landscape. In contrast, Dalia in Israel features a shrubland biome with a rocky substrate. Both locations showcase the diversity of their natural habitats.

Rating - (Ease of care) - Moderatly easy  - ★★★★☆☆☆☆☆☆

Why this score?

★ - High maintenance due to messiness

★★ - Predominantly wild-caught

★ - Breeding challenges

The Schneider’s skink is an active and messy lizard that loves digging. This behavior often leads to excessive dust accumulating throughout the enclosure, including in hard-to-reach areas, requiring frequent and thorough maintenance. Most Schneider’s skinks are wild-caught, which can pose challenges such as potential parasites or underlying health issues, including metabolic bone disease. This is often evident in the kinks or deformities found in their tails.

Setup Requirements:

A single reptile can comfortably thrive in an enclosure measuring 3x2x2 ft. However, providing extra space is highly beneficial, as these animals are incredibly active for about three hours each day. During this time, they enthusiastically explore every crevice of their habitat. The larger the enclosure, the better their experience will be. For instance, I currently house three reptiles in a 5x1.5x2 ft enclosure, but I plan to upgrade to an additional 3x2x3 ft enclosure soon to further accommodate their needs.

Substrate Options and Décor:

Berber skinks thrive best with a dry, sandy-like substrate. A mixture of tortoise soil and Leolife substrate, or similar home-made blends, works exceptionally well. This combination allows them to burrow and move effortlessly through their environment. Providing plenty of climbing structures and hides is equally important. These active and curious creatures love to climb and explore, often resembling a lively acrobatic circus during their active hours—full of mischief and excitement. When it comes to hides, offering diverse options is key. While some skinks prefer to stay hidden above the substrate, others enjoy spending most of their time burrowed underneath. Catering to these preferences ensures their environment is both stimulating and comfortable.

Suitable Live Plants -

When designing a semi-arid enclosure, it’s important to choose plants that are hardy, drought-tolerant, and capable of growing among rocks. This is especially crucial because Berber skinks tend to dig up anything they find underground. Swell Reptiles offers a reptile-safe selection of succulents that are perfect for this purpose. For the best results, consider securing the plant by gluing its pot to the side of the enclosure and cutting off the bottom half of the pot. This method allows the plant to anchor itself into the substrate while remaining stable and firmly in place. Air plants are another excellent option, as they thrive in high temperatures and require minimal water. These can also be glued directly to the enclosure, making them an easy and durable choice for your setup.

Some of the native plants that the Berber skink may encounter include: Origanum dayi, a desert oregano plant. Unfortunately, I’ve had difficulty finding seeds or plants for sale, which is a shame because they thrive in arid, rocky deserts. They naturally grow in rock crevices, making them ideal for such environments.

Another native plant is actually a tree called Olea europaea, commonly known as the olive tree. Native to this region, olive trees require very little water. A small olive shrub would be an excellent addition to an enclosure and can be pruned like a bonsai to maintain its size.

The final plant I’ll highlight here is Satureja thymbrifolia, a shrub native to the region. There are several subspecies of this plant that can be used as substitutes. They don’t require high-quality soil, making them perfect for sandy soil mixes or for growing in rock crevices.

These three plants are native to the area, though I haven’t tested them with the skinks yet. I plan to experiment with a small olive tree and a savory plant of another species to see how well they work in the enclosure.

Heating and Lighting

Proper heating and lighting are essential to ensure this species can effectively digest food and maintain healthy hormone regulation. To achieve this, a high-output basking lamp controlled by a reliable thermostat is a must for maintaining elevated temperatures. The basking area should ideally be between 40°C and 43°C, with the warmer side of the enclosure kept at 32°C to 35°C. The cooler side should range from 26°C to 29°C. At night, temperatures should drop no lower than 20°C and no higher than 24°C to create optimal conditions.

UVB lighting is equally vital. Choose a UVB light that emits 10%–12% UVB (often labeled as 10.0 on the UVI index), and ensure it covers at least two-thirds of the enclosure to provide adequate exposure. Since this species originates from hot, arid regions with intense sunlight and high UV levels, they are natural baskers, particularly active from morning until midday.

If the room where your enclosure is located is not heated, consider installing a secondary night-time thermostat alongside a heat projector. This will help maintain overnight temperatures of at least 21°C. Maintaining the correct temperature and lighting setup is critical for their overall health and well-being.

Humidity requirements -

Schneider's skinks have more complex humidity needs than they might seem at first glance. Although often assumed to thrive in arid, dry environments, my research and observations tell a different story. These skinks appear to benefit from access to a humid hide or areas with elevated humidity levels. In their natural habitat, humidity can vary widely throughout the year—ranging from as high as 90% in some regions to below 50% in others. This leads me to believe that Schneider's skinks may migrate to more humid locations for breeding and egg-laying purposes.

Below is further research supporting my theory. I will compare two regions as examples: one in Palestine, where these animals have been observed and is part of their natural distribution, and another in Iran, also within their range. A clear difference in humidity levels can be seen between the two regions throughout the year. One region remains extremely dry, while the other experiences a summer humidity spike that aligns with the onset of their breeding season in April/May. Eggs are typically laid 28–42 days later, around June/July, when humidity in this area peaks. The eggs then hatch 49–70 days after laying, between August and early October, which again coincides with the continuation of the humidity spike. These observations suggest a strong connection between breeding activity and specific humidity patterns. It raises the possibility that we might be keeping these animals under suboptimal conditions for breeding. Additionally, they may naturally migrate within their range to areas that exhibit these seasonal humidity fluctuations, further supporting this theory.

Diet and Nutrition

The Berber skink's diet is relatively straightforward, primarily consisting of live insects with the occasional addition of special treats. Below is a recommended list of foods you can include in their diet:

• Large Crickets (Frequent)
• Black Crickets (Frequent)
• Large Locusts (Frequent)
• Morio Worms (Frequent)
• Waxworms (Occasional Treat)
• Mealworms (Occasionally)
• Dubia Roaches (Frequent)
• Pinkies (Rare Treat)

All live insects should be gut-loaded with fresh vegetables prior to feeding and dusted with supplements that include calcium (with D3) and other essential nutrients. I personally use Nutrobal as a base supplement and add additional calcium to every meal to ensure a balanced diet.

Feed your Berber skink every 5-7 days, offering about 4-7 appropriately sized insects per feeding (e.g., large crickets). Monitor their weight closely; reduce portion sizes if they begin to gain too much weight. Ideally, their weight should stay within the range of 100-150g.

Behaviors

Berber/Schnider skinks are the acrobats of the skink world! Highly energetic and active during certain times of the day, they love to climb, explore, and sometimes even take a tumble while doing so. If you're looking for a pet that's lively and entertaining to watch, especially in the mornings, these skinks are a wonderful choice.

Much like Ackie monitors, Schnider skinks thrive on enrichment activities involving their food. As mentioned earlier, they enjoy exploring, so using a dog treat holder filled with crickets or locusts can provide both mental stimulation and exercise. This not only makes mealtime more engaging for them but also encourages unique, entertaining behaviors. Below, you'll find links to some recommended enrichment toys to try out with your skink.

During the summer, mating behaviors are quite common in Schnider skinks. Males typically bite and grab females during mating, but this behavior rarely causes harm to the females.

Schnider skinks can also become very tame, making them a great option for those who want a handleable pet. Captive-bred specimens are generally friendly and often actively seek interaction, even climbing onto you daily. On the other hand, wild-caught skinks tend to be more challenging to tame. Spending time near their tank during maintenance and gradually introducing your hand to their space will help them adjust to you. Positive reinforcement, such as hand-feeding, can significantly speed up the taming process and build trust between you and your skink.

Day and Night Cycle -

For most menageries, a standard 12-hour day and night cycle works well. However, if you're aiming to mirror a more natural and authentic day-night rhythm, this guide provides insights inspired by real-world conditions. To illustrate, I’ve used the At-Tayah region in the West Bank of Palestine as a reference, showcasing timings that closely align with nature.

Date collected from timeanddate.com

The graph above illustrates how daylight hours fluctuate throughout the year. During the summer months (April to September), days are longer, offering between 12 to 14 hours of daylight. Conversely, in the winter months (October to March), daylight shortens to just 10 to 12 hours.

Common Health Issues

Parasites: Many of these reptiles are wild-caught, which increases the likelihood of them carrying parasites. Fortunately, in the UK, most reputable distributors quarantine and treat these animals before they reach pet shops, significantly reducing the risk compared to previous years. However, if you notice any signs of parasites, consult an exotic veterinarian immediately. Early detection allows for successful treatment.

Metabolic Bone Disease: This condition is observed more frequently in wild-caught specimens. For example, one of my reptiles has a misshapen tail, likely due to metabolic bone disease or an old injury. Fortunately, this hasn’t affected its quality of life. To prevent this disease, ensure your reptile has consistent exposure to UVB lighting, replace bulbs as recommended, and include calcium and vitamin D3 supplements in their diet. With proper care, this condition is entirely preventable.

Dehydration and Impaction: These reptiles, native to arid environments with loose substrates for burrowing, are prone to impaction, often linked to dehydration. Proper hydration is essential to mitigate this risk. Always ensure fresh water is available and encourage adequate hydration to maintain their overall health.

Challenges with Wild-Caught Specimens: Wild-caught reptiles come with inherent uncertainties and risks. For example, their exact age is often unknown, meaning they could be closer to the end of their natural lifespan. Additionally, they may have endured past injuries or trauma, leading to potential long-term health issues. Some underlying conditions may only become noticeable in their later years. When caring for wild-caught reptiles, be prepared for these challenges and provide the best care possible to ensure their well-being.

Cleaning:

Regular cleaning is essential to maintain a healthy environment. Spot clean feces as soon as you notice them and perform a daily check of the enclosure. Use a sieve weekly to remove debris and thoroughly clean the enclosure sides with an antibacterial cleaner or D10 solution. Rotate and clean a few decorative pieces each week, ensuring wooden or cork items are brushed gently to prevent wear from over-washing. Wipe down the sides of the enclosure and remove any dusty substrate from lighting fixtures as needed to keep everything tidy and safe.

Brumation -

During the winter months, Berber skinks naturally enter a dormant state called brumation. In this phase, they become less active, eat minimally, and prefer to stay hidden. Brumation typically starts in late October and lasts until spring, usually between February and April. It’s essential to adjust their care routine to support this natural behavior. Reduce their heating and feeding, as their metabolism slows significantly due to inactivity. This is a normal and healthy part of their yearly cycle, so there’s no cause for concern.

To help you understand their seasonal needs, below is an outline of typical temperature fluctuations throughout the year. Temperatures begin dropping in October and start rising again in March. To replicate this natural cycle, lower the ambient temperature in their enclosure to around 22°C during brumation. Maintain a basking spot but reduce its temperature accordingly. For instance, if the ambient temperature is lowered from 28°C to 22°C (a 6°C decrease), the basking spot should also be reduced by 6°C. This means a summer basking spot of 42°C should be adjusted to 36°C during winter.

At the coldest point in natural conditions, temperatures may drop to as low as 10°C. However, I don’t recommend letting it get this low in captivity. If you do decide to experiment with such temperatures, I’d love to hear about your experience and how it worked out for your skink.

Availability -

Availability can be a mixed experience when sourcing these animals. As of 2024, about 20% are captive-bred, while the remaining 80% are wild-caught. That said, there has been progress in breeding them successfully in captivity, despite their reputation for being notoriously difficult to breed. With advancements in equipment and refining breeding techniques, it’s likely that captive breeding will become more common and accessible in the future.

In my experience, wild-caught specimens tend to be very skittish and challenging to tame. I currently house three of these animals together—two females and one male, as far as I can tell. Of the three, two are wild-caught, and one is captive-bred. The captive-bred individual is notably more docile and friendly, often perching happily on my shoulder. In contrast, the wild-caught ones remain generally skittish and less accustomed to handling.

References-

Gallery -

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