Care Guide - Dwarf Bearded Dragon 

Can they be Cohabilitated?

We do not recommend housing these animals together. While they share similarities with standard bearded dragons, they can exhibit aggression toward one another. It’s best to keep them separate, except during controlled breeding seasons. Even then, close monitoring is essential to ensure their safety and well-being.

What size do they get?

This species of bearded dragon is one of the smaller varieties, with an average size of up to 38 cm (15 inches) from head to tail. They are also notably lightweight, with fully grown individuals typically weighing around 45 grams (1.6 ounces) on average.

When will i see them?

This diurnal lizard species is active throughout most of the day. However, they occasionally retreat to burrows to rest and escape the light. When out and about, they can typically be found basking in the sun or climbing as they explore their surroundings.

Costs to keep

How much will it roughly cost you to keep an individual Dwarf bearded dragon well including the setup and ongoing costs, this does not include unexpected vet bills or the rising cost of products over time.

Used for energy calculation : https://www.sust-it.net/energy-calculator.php

Distribution:

These reptiles are primarily found along the west coast of Australia, though they can also be spotted in some central regions. They are among the more common bearded dragons in their native western range, but remain exceedingly rare in captivity due to strict wildlife export restrictions in Australia. Their natural habitats include forests, savannas, shrublands, and coastal areas.

Image captured from iNaturalist

The image below showcases the natural habitat of these animals, located in Woodridge, near Perth, Australia. As depicted, the ground is sandy and dry, surrounded by a variety of dense bushes and shrubs that the semi-arboreal Western Bearded Dragon relies on for survival. A bit further south, along the west coast in a region called South Greenough, the landscape remains quite similar, offering comparable conditions for these creatures.

Rating (Ease of Care): Moderatly experienced - ★★★★★★☆☆☆☆

Why this score?

★★ Rare or niche subspecies

★★ Additional care requirements

★ Small size and quick movements

★ Arboreal needs

This is a semi-arboreal species of lizard, unlike their cousins, the Pogona vitticeps (central bearded dragon), which are primarily terrestrial. These lizards thrive when given opportunities to climb, so it's important to provide plenty of branches, sticks, and other décor to support their natural behaviors and promote their wellbeing.

Their care requirements are more advanced compared to beginner-friendly reptiles. Misconceptions—such as not providing water to desert species—or challenges like managing brumation periods in adults can be overwhelming for new keepers without proper research. Additionally, their small size and quick movements can make handling unpredictable unless done consistently.

As a rare or niche subspecies, they also pose unique challenges for intermediate keepers, offering a rewarding experience for those willing to learn more about them. However, I do not recommend these lizards for beginners or those uncertain about meeting their specific needs.

Setup Requirements:

Thanks to their smaller size compared to regular bearded dragons, they can be comfortably housed in an enclosure measuring 3x2x2ft at a minimum. However, as they grow into adulthood, upgrading to a 4x2x2ft enclosure is highly recommended to provide extra space for their overall wellbeing. While they are a semi-arboreal species, a 2ft height is sufficient due to their compact build. Incorporating dead shrubs and branches into the enclosure creates excellent climbing structures, allowing them to fully utilize the vertical space.

Terrarium Links

Substrate options and decor -

For the substrate, consider using a mix of slate rocks and Leolife. Leolife is a sandy-based substrate with larger rocks, ideal for creating low-humidity environments. To add more dimension to their habitat, cork bark tubes provide excellent basking spots under UV light, while additional rock slabs create perfect areas for basking beneath the heat lamp. Don't forget to include plenty of hiding spots to ensure they feel secure and comfortable in their environment.

Substrate and Decor links

Suitable Live Plants -

Live plants are not essential for bearded dragons, as they naturally thrive in arid environments. However, if you’d like to include plants in their enclosure, it’s important to choose non-toxic varieties since these reptiles may occasionally nibble on them. Below are some safe and suitable options:

• Aloe Vera: Aloe vera is a hardy, non-toxic plant that is safe for bearded dragons. It thrives with minimal water, making it a practical choice for their enclosures.
• Ficus (Weeping Fig): Native to Australia, the weeping fig is a bush-like plant that adds natural beauty to enclosures. It requires little water and can help create a more dynamic and enriching environment for your pet.
• Selaginella lepidophylla (Resurrection Plant): Known as the "resurrection plant," this species can survive extended periods without water. Its mat-like growth pattern makes it versatile—you can spread it out for coverage or leave it in its dormant state for decoration.

By choosing these low-maintenance, non-toxic plants, you can enhance your bearded dragon’s habitat while ensuring their safety and well-being.

Here are a few native plants from the natural habitat of Dwarf Bearded Dragons. While incorporating these plants into enclosures requires careful consideration, they offer a great starting point for exploring the idea of using authentic native vegetation. 

Heating and Lighting - Based on my research and commonly accepted practices for standard central bearded dragons, it's recommended to provide a basking spot with a temperature between 38-42°C. The warm side of the enclosure should range from 32-36°C, while the cooler side should be maintained between 22-28°C. This provides a proper thermal gradient, allowing the animal to regulate its body temperature effectively. Although this species differs slightly, it belongs to the same genus, so these temperature guidelines should be sufficient. However, by examining the average weather patterns in Perth, one of the natural habitats for this species, we can refine our approach. Perth experiences distinct summer and winter seasons, with daytime temperatures dropping by approximately 13°C from summer peaks to winter lows. Nighttime temperatures range from 19°C in summer to 9°C in winter, resulting in an average drop of about 10°C. Considering this, during the summer months, the basking spot should be maintained between 40-42°C, as rocks in the wild tend to absorb and retain heat beyond the surrounding air temperature. In winter, this can be reduced to 30-32°C to reflect the natural temperature drop. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop to around 9°C. Studies on central bearded dragons have shown that they brumate at approximately 10°C, so it’s reasonable to assume a similar pattern for this species. In most UK homes, where winter ambient temperatures typically range between 14-18°C, this natural drop should support brumation behavior. For the cooler side of the enclosure, aim for daytime temperatures of 22-25°C in summer and 14-17°C in winter, which can often align with room temperature. As a final note, if your dragon has health issues or is too young to brumate, it's recommended to keep temperatures slightly higher during winter to prevent brumation. This ensures their survival and well-being during the dormant period.

Heating and lighting links

Humidity Requirements: The central bearded dragon thrives in low humidity, typically maintained between 20-40% year-round. However, since we’re discussing a different subspecies of bearded dragon, it’s important to consider the unique environmental factors and habitats they occupy. Below, you’ll find data on the annual precipitation and humidity patterns specific to the western bearded dragon.

During the winter months, precipitation occurs nearly every other day, compared to only about 3 days out of 100 during the summer. To maintain proper humidity in winter, aim to keep it below 50%. This can be easily managed with a light misting in the mornings. Additionally, remember to always provide a water bowl on the cooler side, a practice that should be maintained throughout the year.

Diet and Nutrition

Their dietary needs are relatively simple to meet. Feed them a variety of insects dusted with a calcium carbonate supplement containing vitamin D3 and vitamin A, along with other multivitamins for balanced nutrition.

Recommended insects include:

• Small locusts
• Small crickets
• Mealworms
• Waxworms
• Calci worms

Feed them every 2–3 days, offering each individual 3–6 locusts or crickets per feeding. Occasionally supplement their diet with treats like waxworms. If you’ll be away for more than a couple of days, you can leave a dish of mealworms dusted with supplements alongside their usual diet. Mealworms are generally well-accepted and can sustain them for a short period.

Providing a varied diet is essential for maintaining their health. The more diverse their food choices, the healthier and more robust they will be.

During the winter months, light misting is necessary for this species. Apply a small amount of misting on the cooler side of the enclosure in the mornings to create a light dew. Additionally, place a shallow water bowl on the cooler side to help with hydration and maintain slightly higher humidity levels in that area.

Behaviors

These fascinating little creatures exhibit unique behaviors that I’ve only observed in this specific lizard species. Unlike others, they don’t seem to be easily startled by humans in their environment. In fact, they often “bar lean” on the side of their enclosure, calmly observing the world around them. Another intriguing behavior is their tendency to burrow. I frequently find my little companion nestled between bark and rocks, just relaxing. Interestingly, when they’re burrowing or hiding, their back tends to darken significantly—something I’d love to explore further.

Handling -

Initially, they can be a bit skittish, especially around new people. I recommend interacting with them at least once a week. Even small actions, like making your presence known by spending time near their enclosure or cleaning areas close to them, can help them adjust and feel more comfortable. Over time, they tend to settle down remarkably well. If you’d like to handle them, the best approach is to gently scoop them up from behind. They usually calm down quickly when held this way. Be sure to remain still and avoid walking around, as sudden movements can startle them at first. Once they’ve become more accustomed to you, you can gradually introduce more movement during interactions.

Day and night Cycle -

You can establish a standard 12-hour day and night cycle without any complications. However, if you wish to create a more natural environment for the animals, consider replicating the day-night cycle of Perth, which falls within their range. From September to March (summer months), daylight lasts between 12 and 14.5 hours, while during the winter months, it ranges from 10 to 12 hours. Using this information, you can adjust the lighting to reflect these seasonal variations, as outlined below.

Data from weatherspark.com

Common Health Issues

Gout: Often linked to overfeeding and obesity, gout can usually be managed by reducing food intake. It's critical to consult a veterinarian for an accurate diagnosis and a proper treatment plan tailored to your animal's needs.

Respiratory Infections: These infections, caused by bacteria, are often preventable through regular enclosure maintenance. Proper cleaning minimizes bacterial buildup, while controlling humidity levels reduces the risk of pathogens thriving in the dragon's respiratory system. High humidity can promote infections, so keeping the enclosure environment balanced is key.

Obesity: Overfeeding is a common issue, especially among novice keepers who often assume lizards require more food than they actually need. To prevent obesity, regularly weigh your pet and adjust their food intake as necessary. Maintaining a healthy weight is essential for their overall well-being.

Infections: Bacterial infections can often be prevented by keeping the enclosure clean and maintaining proper hygiene. Regular cleaning reduces the risk of bacteria buildup and helps ensure a healthier environment for your pet.

Shedding Issues: Shedding problems can usually be avoided by adjusting humidity levels and providing a water bowl on the cooler side of the enclosure. Stuck sheds, especially around their toes, are common but can be managed with proper care and attention to their environment.

Mouth Rot: Mouth rot, caused by bacterial infections, can be largely prevented by maintaining a clean enclosure. Regular cleaning minimizes bacterial growth, significantly reducing the risk of this condition.

Cleaning -

Regular maintenance is essential for a clean and healthy environment. Remove any visible waste or urates as soon as you notice them. Every other week, clean the sides of the enclosure and rotate the décor to ensure hygiene and variety. Substrate should typically be replaced every three months, though this may vary depending on its depth and how heavily the décor is used.

Brumation -

Bearded dragons often experience a natural period of reduced activity known as brumation. This typically occurs between June and September, depending on weather conditions. When temperatures drop to around 10°C or lower during winter, they may enter this dormant state, during which they can go without eating for one to two months.

Availability

These dragons are incredibly rare—I’ve only ever come across one in the past few years, and I quickly added it to my collection. If I come across more, I’d love to attempt breeding them to make them more widely available. They’re an amazing smaller alternative to the standard bearded dragon. However, their rarity might be due to the popularity of another small species called the Rankins dragon. While Rankins dragons are just as visually striking, I’m not personally familiar with their care requirements, though they’re likely similar.

If you're looking to acquire one of these dragons, your best bet would be to engage with forums or reach out to local pet shops that may have connections to breeders. Alternatively, you can inquire about the possibility of having a breeder supply one to a store near you. Due to Australia's strict animal import/export laws, all of these dragons are now captive-bred—which is certainly a positive for conservation and ethical ownership.

References-

Gallery -

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