Care Guide - Ball Python

Image used from Inaturalist

Ball pythons thrive in habitats like the one shown below, predominantly grasslands. Within these environments, females typically create burrows, which serve as essential spaces for laying eggs and managing their shedding cycles. The soil's composition in these areas helps maintain humidity levels above 80%, ideal for their needs. Meanwhile, males are often found in trees, where they hunt and ambush birds, as well as small to medium-sized rodents. In the wild, ball pythons inhabit not only grasslands like these but also savannas, shrublands, and even agricultural areas with similar characteristics.

Roadside view Near Tsito - Ghana

Rating - (Ease of care) - Fairly easy  - ★★★☆☆☆☆☆☆☆ 

Setup Requirements

Ball pythons can grow to a considerable size, and their enclosure should allow them to stretch out fully to ensure their comfort and well-being. As a general guideline, the enclosure's width should match the snake's full length—so for a 3-foot snake, a 3-foot-wide enclosure is the minimum, and for a 5-foot snake, a 5-foot-wide enclosure should be provided. Additionally, recent studies highlight the importance of offering arboreal climbing opportunities to encourage natural behaviors. Personally, I plan to upgrade my snake's enclosure height from 1.5 feet to 3 feet in my reptile room to better meet these needs.

Although royal pythons (ball pythons) can be kept in smaller enclosures or tubs (RUBs), scientific research suggests that restricting their space limits their ability to exhibit natural behaviors. While some keepers choose compact setups, I personally advocate for larger, more enriching environments. Ultimately, this decision is at the keeper’s discretion, but providing ample space significantly benefits the snake's overall quality of life.

In summary, enclosure size recommendations are as follows: for a newly hatched snake, a minimum of 2x1x1.5 feet; for a juvenile, 3x2x2 feet; and for an adult, 5x2x2 feet. However, it’s recommended to add an extra foot or two to the enclosure height if possible. This can be achieved by stacking enclosures and carefully cutting openings between them with a jigsaw to create additional vertical space. Unfortunately, enclosures over 2 feet in height are not commonly available in the market and often need to be custom-made.

Substrate Options and Décor

Currently, I use an orchid bark mix combined with crested gecko substrate for my ball python. This combination has proven excellent for maintaining optimal humidity levels within the enclosure. In the future, I plan to experiment with other substrates. My next goal is to try a mix of orchid bark and topsoil, as this would allow me to incorporate native plants that closely resemble the ball python’s natural habitat.

Heating and lighting

Taking care of the heating needs for a Ball Python doesn’t have to be overly complicated. While some people choose to house them in racks and heat entire rooms successfully, my recommendation for keeping one as a pet is to provide a direct heat source, such as a bulb, along with some UV exposure. Though UV exposure has traditionally been considered unnecessary for snakes, recent advancements in reptile care suggest that it offers noticeable benefits. So, why not provide it? A low to medium level of UV exposure is sufficient. For this, you can use a UVB bulb with an output of 2.4% to 7% (shaded-dweller range) or 1.0 to 5.0 UV. Ideally, the UVB bulb should cover about two-thirds of the enclosure's length to ensure the best results for your snake. In addition to UV lighting, you’ll need a heat bulb (with the correct fixture). Depending on your climate, a 50-75W bulb should maintain the proper temperatures. Aim for the following temperature gradients in the enclosure: - **Hot side:** 28-30°C (82-86°F) - **Cool side:** 24-28°C (75-82°F) - **Basking spot:** 31-33°C (88-91°F) For the basking spot, I recommend incorporating a hide so that your Ball Python can enjoy the warmth while still feeling secure, rather than being exposed out in the open. To maintain consistent and safe heating, it is essential to use a dimming thermostat. This prevents overheating, reducing the risk of burns to your snake and minimizing fire hazards in your home. Additionally, to simulate natural day and night cycles, invest in a timer for the UV lighting fixture. Affordable, phone-controlled timers are readily available and easy to use (see the links below for examples). By following these recommendations, you'll create a safe and comfortable environment for your Ball Python while ensuring its health and well-being.

Diet and nutrition

Their diets are relatively simple; however, I strongly recommend incorporating variety, as you would with most animals. Below is a selection of frozen foods I typically feed to a Ball Python:

• Mice
• Chicks
• Rats
• Quails
• Multimammates

As young juveniles, Ball Pythons should be fed once every 5–7 days. As they mature into adults, their feeding frequency decreases, but they will require larger prey items. A general rule of thumb is that each meal should be approximately 1/8th of their body weight. For example, if your snake weighs 300g, divide that by 8 to determine the ideal prey weight, which would be about 37.5g.

Below is a rough guide for feeding at different life stages. Regularly handling and examining your snake for signs of obesity or malnutrition, along with monthly weigh-ins, will help ensure they remain within a healthy weight range.

Maintaining proper humidity is essential for this species, particularly in their hides. Misting every 2-3 days is recommended, especially if you're using a substrate mix of 50% Crestie Life and 50% orchid bark. Lightly spraying the Crestie Life helps create a humid area in the enclosure, allowing them to shed properly and self-regulate. Be sure to mist at least one of their hides, as this helps maintain the higher humidity levels needed for successful shedding. Additionally, I recommend placing a water bowl on the cooler side of the enclosure. Since these enclosures are generally large, the water bowl is unlikely to significantly increase overall humidity, so it shouldn’t cause any issues.

Behaviors -

When I first got my Ball Python, Curie, I was absolutely terrified of snakes. She was my very first snake, and I made a deliberate effort to change my perspective by actively handling her. Ball Pythons are incredibly docile creatures. They’re content to relax on you and enjoy being handled. Occasionally, they enjoy a bit of exploration around the room—just be sure to keep an eye on them whenever they’re out of their vivarium.

Ball Pythons can be a little skittish at times, especially if your hand comes near their face. They tend to pull back and hide, but with consistent care and gentle handling, they will gradually become more comfortable around you. Their eyesight isn’t very strong, which likely explains some of these defensive behaviors.

What they lack in vision, they more than make up for with their incredible sense of smell. Using their Jacobson’s organ, they can detect heat with remarkable precision. In fact, their heat sensitivity is so refined that they can sense you through glass when feeding on warmed-up mice at temperatures above the surrounding environment.

As a hobbyist, I believe that by providing Ball Pythons with more space, we would have the opportunity to observe more of their natural behaviors—similar to those they exhibit in the wild. This is something I personally plan to explore within the next year.

Handling -

Ball pythons are generally very easy to handle and typically don’t require additional positive reinforcement when acquired from a reputable source. However, here are some helpful tips to transition your Ball python from "food mode" to "thinking mode."

First, ensure that any live or frozen food is stored far away from your snake's feeding area. Frozen food should remain in the freezer until it’s time to offer it. It’s best to avoid handling your snake on feeding days, as the scent of defrosting food can trigger their feeding instincts. In such cases, your Ball python may mistakenly perceive your warm hand or other body parts as a food source, as they rely on their Jacobson’s organ to detect heat signatures. While this behavior can vary between individuals, it’s better to handle them on non-feeding days to avoid confusion and ensure safety.

Day and Night Cycle

Like most reptiles, these animals thrive on a standard 12-hour day and night cycle without any significant impact on their well-being. This is primarily because they originate from regions close to the equator, where day and night lengths remain fairly consistent throughout the year. As shown below, the variation in their natural day-night cycle is minimal, typically only about 30 minutes.

Graph from www.timeanddate.com

Common Health Issues:

Shedding - Shedding is a very common issue, often caused by improper husbandry practices but can also have genetic roots. In most cases, achieving the correct humidity and temperature resolves the problem—approximately 90% of the time. For the remaining cases, it may be due to genetic factors or other underlying health conditions.

Obesity - Obesity is another frequent issue that is entirely preventable with proper education and consistent observation of your animal. Unfortunately, it occurs far too often, emphasizing the importance of responsible care.

Respiratory Infections - These infections are usually a result of incorrect temperatures, improper humidity levels, or poor hygiene within the enclosure. Thankfully, they are preventable in most cases with proper care and maintenance of the tank environment.

Burns - Burns are an all-too-common occurrence in this hobby, often seen in forums and posts where a heat guard was not installed. This issue is completely preventable and, frankly, unacceptable when proper precautions are not taken.

Morph related issues - 

Unfortunately, certain Ball Python morphs can experience a range of health issues, from minor shedding problems to severe neurological disorders. One of the most controversial morphs is the Spider morph, which is often associated with neurological complications. This topic has become a point of contention within the reptile-keeping community. While some enthusiasts report no issues with their Spider morphs, others have encountered severe cases that raise ethical concerns.

In my opinion, it’s best to avoid this morph entirely. The potential long-term risks simply aren’t worth it. I would be devastated to discover that a snake I’ve cared for developed life-threatening neurological issues later on. Prioritizing the health and well-being of these animals is always the most responsible choice.

Cleaning:

Regular maintenance is essential to keep your enclosure clean and your pet healthy. Spot-clean daily to remove any urates or feces, and disinfect one or two decor items each week using D10 cleaner or an antibacterial spray. Wipe down the enclosure walls every few weeks, as animals often slide along the edges. Replace the substrate as needed—use your judgment to determine when it's no longer clean. Maintaining proper hygiene significantly reduces the risk of preventable health issues for your pet.

Brumation:

These creatures typically do not experience brumation or slow down during any part of the year. This is due to their native environment, where the day-night cycle remains consistent year-round, and the climate is remarkably stable with minimal temperature fluctuations.

Avalability -

Ball pythons are among the most popular and readily available exotic pets on the market. Finding one is rarely a challenge. While some morphs are rarer and more unique, their price typically reflects their rarity. In fact, there have even been cases of people receiving normal ball pythons as giveaways at reptile shows. Most pet stores either have them in stock or can easily source one for you. Additionally, platforms like MorphMarket offer a wide variety of stunning specimens to choose from.

When it comes to ethics, I always recommend rescuing or adopting a pet whenever possible. The market is overly saturated, and after Buying my own Ball Python and diving into research, I’ve grown increasingly concerned about the current state of the industry. Overbreeding has become common, and less popular morphs often face neglect or challenges in the long term.

Morphs -

Ball Python morphs are among the most diverse and fascinating aspects of the reptile hobby. They form the backbone of a thriving sub-economy, as evidenced by marketplaces like MorphMarket, where the sheer variety of Ball Pythons far surpasses that of any other reptile species (Not always for the greater good of the hobby or ethically correct). These snakes are exceptionally popular, and for good reason—they're easy to care for, incredibly docile, and come in an astounding array of morphs, offering enthusiasts endless options to explore.

Below, you'll find a table showcasing a selection of both common and rare morphs available in the market. While only ten are listed here, the world of Ball Python morphs is vast, with thousands to discover. If you'd like to see a more comprehensive list, visit: https://www.worldofballpythons.com/morphs/.

References-

Ball python morphs -

https://www.worldofballpythons.com/morphs/

Gallery -

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