Care Guide - Indonesian false bloodsucker

Can they be Cohabilitated?

Yes, males and females can be housed together as they are generally a docile species. Based on my observations, there is little to no aggression when keeping them in mixed groups. However, I do not recommend keeping males together unless you have the proper setup to separate them if any signs of aggression occur. Since information on this topic is somewhat limited, I prefer to err on the side of caution with this suggestion. False bloodsuckers can coexist with green anoles, as both species have similar habitat requirements. They naturally occupy different zones within the enclosure: green anoles tend to stay higher up, while False bloodsuckers prefer the lower foliage and branches. The False bloodsucker may use its dewlap to warn other lizards that come too close. However, these lizards are highly docile and will quickly retreat and relax once they recognize there is no real threat.

What size do they get? -

This small lizard species typically measures between 16-19 cm in length, with no noticeable size difference between males and females. Their tails are roughly the same length as their bodies, tapering to a fine point at the end, measuring less than 0.5 cm in thickness.

When will i see them?

These lizards make excellent daytime companions to observe. As diurnal creatures, they can often be found basking under the UVB light in their enclosure or casually exploring their surroundings. They typically remain active until the late evening, usually settling down to sleep between 8-10 PM and waking up refreshed between 7-9 AM.

Costs to keep

How much will it roughly cost you to keep an individual Indoniesian false bloodsucker well including the setup and ongoing costs, this does not include unexpected vet bills or the rising cost of products over time.

Used for energy calculation : https://www.sust-it.net/energy-calculator.php

Distribution - These creatures are primarily found in the mountainous, forested regions of Indonesia's west coast and central areas. According to data from iNaturalist, they are most commonly observed at higher elevations.

Below, you'll find a Google Maps image showcasing the terrain these lizards inhabit. The first image is a partial screenshot of a user-submitted photo from Mount Gede, while the second photo is from a nearby location known as Bumi Perkemahan Bukit Golf Cibodas. Both locations feature strikingly similar landscapes—lush tropical forests at high elevations—providing an ideal habitat for arboreal lizards like the Indonesian false bloodsucker.

Rating - (Ease of care) - Unknown - ★★★★★★★★★★

Currently, it’s challenging to provide an accurate assessment due to the limited information available online about this lizard, let alone proper care guides. This page aims to serve as a foundation for developing a reliable care guide. Until I am confident in understanding their specific needs, the care rating will remain marked as unknown.

Setup Requirements -

They are small agamid lizards, so their enclosure doesn’t need to be overly large. I housed my two individuals in a 30x30x45 cm arboreal setup, which offered them plenty of space to thrive. Due to their calm and docile nature, male and female pairs can coexist peacefully without any conflicts. However, if you plan to house more individuals, I recommend upgrading to a larger 45x45x60 cm enclosure to provide sufficient room for everyone to live comfortably. Unfortunately, one of my lizards passed away after a week, likely due to being wild-caught. However, the other has been thriving in a bioactive setup, cohabiting successfully with green anoles and long-tailed lizards.

Substrate options and decor- 

Consider creating a bioactive environment for these animals to ensure their well-being. The ideal base substrate should be a mix of coco fiber and sedge peat in a 40:60 ratio, or alternatively, a ProRep Bio Life Forest mix or a similar equivalent. It’s important to use a high-humidity, slow-release substrate to match the consistently high humidity levels these animals require. In addition, make sure to incorporate plenty of plants—both real and artificial—to provide ample hiding spots. Thick, sturdy leaves that can support the animals while allowing them to conceal themselves are ideal. Don’t forget to add sticks and twigs to complete the setup and enhance their natural habitat.

Suitable Live Plants -

Broad-leaved plants provide excellent coverage for lizards, offering them safe spaces to hide whenever they feel the need. Species like Pothos and Monstera are ideal additions to an enclosure, as they create abundant hiding spots while enhancing the environment. Their thick, sturdy leaves are also more resistant to damage, ensuring the plants remain durable over time.

If you're looking to recreate a natural habitat for your lizards and want to incorporate plants native to their environment, here’s a curated list of options to consider. Some of these species are directly from their native habitats, while others are suitable alternatives that provide similar aesthetics and benefits. 1. **Begonia multangula** This broad-leafed begonia is native to Java and would be an excellent addition to a vivarium, thanks to its wide leaves that provide ample coverage. Unfortunately, it is not currently available in the UK. However, you can find similar subspecies, such as **Begonia rubella**, which works well as a filler plant and adds a lush, tropical vibe. 2. **Biophytum sensitivum (Little Tree Plant)** Found in various locations across West Java, this delicate plant thrives at ground level. Placing it in a corner can protect it from being trampled. Its small, tree-like structure adds an interesting dimension to the enclosure. 3. **Ficus villosa** Native to Java, this plant is relatively easy to source in the UK. Its broad leaves and low-growing habit make it a fantastic choice for ground cover, adding layers to your enclosure’s layout. 4. **Selaginella ornata** While this plant is native to the region, it can be challenging to find. A great alternative is **Selaginella sp. (Spike Moss)**, which belongs to the same family and has a similar appearance. Its spreading foliage makes it ideal for filling in soil-covered areas and creating a lush, natural look. 5. **Teak Trees (Tectona grandis)** Native to the rainforests inhabited by these lizards, teak trees can be grown from seeds in the UK and pruned to fit within an enclosure. They are a long-term project but certainly worth experimenting with for their authenticity and stunning presence. 6. **Anaphalis javanica** While this specific species is difficult to find, you can consider other *Anaphalis* varieties, such as **Anaphalis triplinervis**, which is more readily available and native to regions like Thailand and China. These plants belong to the same lineage and can still contribute to a naturalistic setup. 7. **Asparagus setaceus (Cloak Fern)** Surprisingly, this delicate and elegant plant, commonly found in UK plant stores and even supermarkets, is native to West Java. It’s perfect for creating a soft, lush look. Position it along the sides of the enclosure and surround it with sturdier plants for added protection. To enhance the visual and environmental authenticity, consider adding sticks and twigs to mimic their natural surroundings. Together with these plants, you can create a realistic, thriving habitat for your lizards. Happy planting!

Asparagus Setaceus

Heating and lighting -

For these lizards, a UVB output of 6-7% is ideal. Depending on the size of your enclosure, you’ll need either an 8W or 24W unit, suitable for enclosures measuring 30-60cm, respectively. The average UVI in the area of Indonesia around Jakarta ranges from 5.75 to 7.25, making 7% UVB lighting a perfect match. Additionally, as these lizards are forest dwellers, they won’t be exposed to the full intensity of the sun's rays in their natural habitat.

When it comes to heating, you’ll need a small lighting fixture paired with a 25W bulb and an appropriate thermostat. These lizards thrive in warm environments, so aim for a temperature gradient where basking or elevated areas reach 28-30°C, while lower areas maintain 24-26°C. At night, temperatures can safely drop to room temperature, around 20-21°C. As shown in the image below of the Cibodas region, seasonal temperature variations in their natural habitat are minimal.

Below are the temperatures for one of the regions they inhabit, as referenced above. This data is sourced from WeatherSpark.

Humidity requirements -

The mountainous forests where these lizards reside experience frequent rainfall—typically 3-4 days a week during the summer rainy season (November to April), with a 70% or higher chance of precipitation. However, this drops significantly during the winter months (April to August), when rainfall decreases to just one day or less per week. Despite this seasonal difference in rainfall, humidity levels remain consistently high throughout the year, even in the drier months. Maintaining humidity levels between 80-100% is crucial for these lizards' well-being. Daily misting is essential to replicate their natural environment. The lower end of 80% accounts for microhabitats, such as hiding spots in trees or on the forest floor, where sunlight exposure can slightly reduce humidity—particularly on bark surfaces warmed by the sun.

Diet and nutrition-

The Indonesian false bloodsucker lizard thrives on a varied diet, essential for ensuring a long and healthy life. To meet their nutritional needs, it’s important to offer a mix of the following foods, listed from most to least frequently fed:

• Small/Medium Crickets
• Small Locusts
• Mealworms
• Small Dubia Roaches
• Waxworms
• Fruit Flies

Since there is limited information available on the dietary habits of these lizards, I am currently experimenting with additional food options. For instance, I am testing ready-mixed crested gecko diets, as these lizards naturally inhabit trees that may provide access to fruits. Additionally, I am working on establishing a colony of isopods within their enclosure, providing a potential snack option that mimics their natural environment.

Behaviours-

These lizards are incredibly calm by nature, yet they remain highly alert to their surroundings. As you move around the room, they will carefully track your location at all times, showcasing their keen awareness.

They are semi-social creatures and can coexist peacefully in pairs, particularly a male and a female. However, I am uncertain about the dynamics between two males. Based on the behavior of other lizard species, it’s likely that males may exhibit territorial conflicts or disputes, similar to other arboreal, tree-dwelling lizards.

These lizards readily accept food from tongs, using their specialized tongue to flick out and grab prey with ease. They also enjoy hunting, so I recommend providing fast-moving small- to medium-sized crickets as their primary food source. This not only meets their dietary needs but also encourages natural hunting behaviors, enhancing their enrichment and overall well-being.

From my observations, males tend to retain their bright, vivid colors, while females typically display a more consistent brown coloration. However, females are capable of changing to a darker green-brown hue when needed.

Handling -

These curious little lizards are quite tolerant of being handled. However, it’s best to avoid handling them for at least a month after bringing them home, especially since many are wild-caught. Giving them this time to settle and acclimate will help reduce stress and prevent potential health issues, such as illness or even death. If you’re not particularly interested in handling your reptiles, they make excellent "watch-only" pets. When it comes to interaction, they typically fall into the category of neutral to slightly reactive in the presence of people.

Day and night Cycle -

Originating from Indonesia, specifically Java, I chose a location where they are abundant—Cibodas. This region experiences minimal variation in its day and night cycle throughout the year. As illustrated in the graph, the daily change is negligible, differing by no more than 30 minutes. Therefore, I recommend maintaining a standard 12-hour day and night cycle for consistency.

Common health issues -

Wild-Caught Concerns: One of the most frequent challenges with wild-caught specimens is the presence of parasites, physical injuries, and stress-related health problems resulting from international travel. Unfortunately, these factors significantly increase the risk of sudden death within the first six months of ownership. While these animals can be fascinating, it’s essential to recognize the risks associated with acquiring wild-caught individuals.

Shedding Challenges: These lizards require high humidity to shed their skin properly. When humidity levels are maintained above 75%, healthy shedding is generally easy to achieve. However, if the humidity drops below this threshold, shedding problems may arise. To prevent such issues, ensure the enclosure’s humidity consistently stays at the recommended level.

Cleaning -

General cleaning guidelines include promptly removing any visible faeces and spraying dirty panels with F10 disinfectant. In a bioactive enclosure, the need to clean the substrate is greatly minimized. With proper maintenance and a well-balanced ecosystem, substrate cleaning can often be reduced to an almost negligible level.

Brumation -

Based on my understanding of weather patterns, it seems unlikely that this would significantly impact these animals. Their local weather typically remains consistent, with only minor temperature fluctuations throughout the year.

Availability: Extremely rare. If you come across these specimens and are confident in your ability to care for them, especially with the intention of breeding, don't hesitate—opportunities like this are few and far between. However, it’s crucial to fully understand the risks associated with keeping wild-caught specimens before making a decision. When I purchased mine, they were priced at around £50 each, making them relatively affordable overall.

I decided to make the purchase to support captive breeding efforts and contribute to the captive-bred population. Unfortunately, my female passed away just a week after I brought her home, likely due to stress or complications from being wild-caught. Thankfully, my male is thriving and has become a wonderful addition to my collection.

References- Weatherspark, timeanddate,

Gallery -

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