Care Guide - Ackie Monitor

Can they be Cohabilitated?

Housing these animals together is not something I would recommend for beginners, especially when it comes to males. While there are reports online of people successfully keeping two females, a male and a female pair, or even a trio of two females and one male without aggression, this is generally considered an advanced practice. It likely involves far more than simply placing them together, such as providing significantly more space to establish territories and other specialized considerations.

What size do they get? -

The Ackie monitor typically grows to an average size of around 60 cm (24 inches) from head to tail. Males are usually slightly larger than females, though there can be variations, with some individuals being up to 10 cm (4 inches) larger or smaller than the average. Overall, I would categorize this species as a medium-sized lizard, bordering on the smaller end of the large lizard category.

When will i see them?

They are diurnal lizards, meaning they are active during the day. Typically, they are awake from 8 AM to 5 PM, with periods of basking and resting throughout the day. However, this schedule can vary depending on the individual lizard.

Costs to keep

How much will it roughly cost you to keep an individual ackie monitor well including the setup and ongoing costs, this does not include unexpected vet bills or the rising cost of products over time.

Used for energy calculation : https://www.sust-it.net/energy-calculator.php

Distribution

These species are widely distributed across northern and western Australia, thriving in a diverse range of habitats. Numerous sightings have been documented on iNaturalist, offering fascinating insights worth exploring. Their natural habitat typically features a Mediterranean to tropical climate, with temperatures ranging from arid to semi-arid conditions—ideal for Ackies to thrive.

Here is an example of a road located within the habitat range of these animals in a region on the west coast known as Port Hedland. The landscape showcases a vast, flat plain covered with shrubland and a dry, sandy surface. Scattered across the terrain are sparse sandstone boulders, adding to the rugged scenery.

Port headland - Western Australia

Rating (Ease of Care): Moderatly experienced - ★★★★★★☆☆☆☆

Why this score?

★★ Enclosure Size

★★ Fundamental Needs

★ Essential Taming Requirements

★ Cost of Care

The ackie monitor receives this intermediate rating because they are more demanding to care for compared to beginner-friendly species. Their specialized requirements, such as proper UVB lighting, precise heating, and varied humidity levels, can be challenging to manage. Additionally, taming them from a young age requires time and patience, which can feel overwhelming for new keepers. Their diet is also more expensive than that of typical beginner reptiles, and their larger space needs may necessitate building a custom enclosure or purchasing a non-standard one. These factors combine to make them better suited for keepers with some prior experience or those willing to put in the extra effort.

Setup Requirements:

Providing adequate space is crucial for these reptiles. Unlike standard enclosures, they require significantly more room to accommodate their natural burrowing behavior. While some people use 4x2x2-foot enclosures, this size is insufficient for adults. For juveniles, a minimum of 4x2x3 feet is recommended, but for adults, an enclosure of at least 6x2x3 feet is necessary to meet their needs.

You can achieve this by using a jigsaw to modify the VivExotic Repti-Home Arboreal Large Deep Grey Vivarium. These enclosures measure 3.7x2x3 feet, which is suitable for babies or juveniles. However, as your reptile matures, you’ll need to either purchase a second unit or extend the enclosure yourself if you have the necessary DIY skills.

Alternatively, you can use a 6x2x2-foot enclosure and add a large, deep box filled with substrate to allow your reptile to dig, mimicking their natural behavior in the wild.

If you choose a 3-foot-high enclosure, you’ll need to create a substrate layer between 11 and 14 inches deep. To prevent the substrate from spilling over the edges, consider using corrugated polycarbonate sheets secured in place with silicone.

Substrate Options and Decor

Since this species originates from the deep outback of Australia, it’s essential to replicate the natural substrate they encounter in their native environment. These areas primarily consist of arid, rocky scrublands with sand and soil-based substrates. At the surface, the substrate is dry, maintaining low humidity levels. However, within their burrows, the substrate retains moisture and holds its shape to support the animal's needs.

After experimenting with various mixes, my current setup includes a blend of 30% coco fiber for humidity retention, 50% tortoise terrain (a combination of sterilized topsoil, sand, and limestone grit), and 20% excavator clay. The excavator clay promotes stable burrow structures. To provide the ideal environment, it’s recommended to layer the enclosure with 11-14 inches of substrate. This depth is critical for their well-being, especially for adults, as burrowing is a natural behavior, particularly for females. If you don't provide sufficient substrate or a dig box, their physical and mental health can be negatively affected.

While this setup can be costly, it’s possible to reduce expenses by sourcing materials wisely. Instead of purchasing pre-mixed options, you can create your own tortoise terrain substrate using topsoil and play sand, which are often available at garden centers. Bulk coco fiber is generally affordable, and you can replicate excavator clay by mixing sand with dried clay. Although it requires some effort, it’s a much more budget-friendly option.

If the glass on your enclosure limits the substrate depth, you can resolve this by attaching a sheet of corrugated plastic at the bottom edge. Secure it in place with glue to create a barrier that prevents the substrate from spilling out when opening the glass doors.

Decor and Enrichment

When setting up the enclosure decor, include large rocks and wooden structures for climbing. Regularly rearrange these items to keep your monitor engaged, as they are highly intelligent creatures that thrive on mental stimulation. A dynamic environment encourages activity and exploration, benefiting their overall well-being. Slate rocks, which are ideal for climbing and heat absorption, can often be purchased at garden centers for a fraction of the cost compared to pet stores or online retailers. Just ensure you clean them thoroughly before use to remove any dirt or contaminants.

Near the basking area, you should create a "retes stack" by stacking 2 flat rocks slightly thicker than their body. Build 3-4 individual levels by stacking additional rocks on top. The topmost rocks will sit directly under the basking lamp and become the hottest, while the heat will gradually dissipate as it passes through the layers. This setup allows the monitor to regulate its body temperature effectively by moving between the levels.

Substrate links

Decor links

Suitable Live Plants

While live plants are not essential for keeping Ackie monitors, incorporating them into the enclosure can create a more naturalistic and enriching environment. Due to the enclosure's low water requirements, suitable options include Carex and Festuca grasses, both considered reptile-safe. Ideally, spinifex grasses native to the Ackie monitor's natural habitat would be the best choice, although they can be challenging to source. If I am able to find spinifex grasses in the future, I plan to include them for added enrichment and authenticity in the enclosure.

Heating and Lighting

To begin, you'll need a dome light paired with a 150W basking bulb and a dimming thermostat. For better reliability and peace of mind, we recommend investing in a high-quality graph-based thermostat, such as those offered by Microclimate. While these may be more expensive, they are well worth the investment. This setup is the minimum required for heating. If your room is heated at night, no additional heat source is needed. However, if your room is not heated, you'll need a secondary thermostat with a timer for nighttime. This should control a 50-75W ceramic or infrared heat bulb housed in a light fixture with a lamp guard to prevent accidental burns. Typically, aim for 10 hours of darkness and 14 hours of daylight during summer, and a 12-hour split between day and night during winter. If nighttime temperatures in your room drop into the teens (Celsius), a thermostat-controlled heating solution is essential to maintain adequate warmth. Recommended items include a ceramic lighting bracket, a ceramic bulb or heat emitter, and a thermostat. Relevant links are provided below for your convenience.

High-quality UVB lighting is essential for this species and should cover at least two-thirds of the enclosure. For a 4ft-wide enclosure, a 30-inch UVB bulb is required, while a 6ft adult enclosure will need a maximum-length UVB fitting of 46 inches. Use a 12-14% UVB bulb to replicate the high UVI levels these monitors experience in their natural habitats.

Heating and lighting links

After mastering the basics and ensuring everything is set up comfortably, you can take the next step by researching the natural conditions these creatures experience in the wild. Below is a chart from Weather Spark displaying the annual temperature averages for a location called Port Hedland. Notice the temperature variations between summer and winter—though the difference in ambient temperature is only around 10 degrees. This subtle change can create a more natural temperature gradient, encouraging your Ackie to exhibit instinctive behaviors.

Humidity Requirements:

Ackie monitors thrive in environments with relatively low ambient humidity, ideally ranging between 20% and 60%. However, providing a dedicated high-humidity area is crucial for healthy shedding. An easy and efficient way to achieve this is by using a plastic tube or hide—such as those made for hamsters or rabbits (see link below). Line the hide with sphagnum moss and lightly mist it every 4-6 days to maintain humidity levels between 80% and 90% inside. This simple setup helps ensure your Ackie monitor experiences smooth and problem-free shedding.

Pet plastic tube

If you're looking to go beyond the basic care for these monitor species, let's dive into their natural habitat averages, as shown below. There is a notable contrast between the environments these monitors inhabit. Interestingly, the regions with the most extreme humidity levels are much closer to the coast. This data reveals that during the summer months, these coastal areas experience significantly higher humidity. Should we then consider replicating periods of increased humidity during the summer for their optimal care?

Diet and Nutrition:

Ackie monitors require a balanced diet to maintain their health. It's important to monitor their weight closely to prevent issues like fatty liver disease and other health-related problems. The recommended insects and food options for them include the following:

• Standard 5th instar locusts
• Large locusts
• Adult black crickets
• Adult brown crickets
• Mealworms/Morio worms
• Waxworms
• Small pinkies

Feed them once every 4-5 days, providing each individual with 8-15 locusts or crickets per feeding. Occasionally, supplement their diet with a bowl of morio worms or waxworms, especially if you’re going on an extended leave, such as a holiday. Ackie monitors will snack on these when they feel hungry, making it a convenient option.

Waxworms are particularly useful as treats for training and taming. Ackie monitors are intelligent creatures and quickly associate these sweet treats with positive interactions. With consistency, they can become quite tame.

Providing a variety of food items is essential for their health, as it ensures they receive a wide range of nutrients. Monitor their weight regularly to ensure they remain within a healthy range. For an average-sized adult Ackie monitor (approximately 70 cm), the ideal weight should not exceed 300 grams.

Hydration and Humidity:

Misting is essential for this species and should be done weekly, especially to aid in shedding. Regular misting helps increase the humidity levels in their tunnels, which is vital for their comfort and health. Additionally, place a water bowl on the cooler side of the enclosure. Due to the size of their enclosures, the risk of elevated humidity from the bowl is minimal and unlikely to cause issues. They will appreciate having access to water, and it’s not uncommon to see them drinking from the bowl.

For optimal health, use bottled mineral water both in the water bowl and for misting. This avoids potential contaminants found in tap water that could negatively affect their health.

Behaviours:

As a monitor lizard, Ackies are highly active during the day and constantly seek stimulation. If they lack engagement or their enclosure remains unchanged for too long, they may resort to glass surfing (scratching at the glass). Unlike many reptiles that can become stressed by changes to their environment, Ackies thrive on variety and new experiences. Their interactions with the world are surprisingly complex, resembling the behavior of some mammalian species. This intelligence and curiosity make them an exceptional pet for those seeking a more interactive reptile companion.

To keep your Ackie engaged, consider rearranging elements in their enclosure. Moving large rocks, creating new burrows, or altering the layout can provide fresh stimulation and encourage exploration.

You can also enhance their enrichment by introducing pet-safe plastic toys for feeding or playtime. Dog or cat toys, as well as reptile-specific enrichment items, can be excellent tools to keep their minds and bodies active. Refer to the images below for examples of suitable toys.

Enrichment for your ackie monitor goes beyond just providing toys. Try placing insects in small crevices within wood or rocks—this encourages natural foraging behavior as they eagerly attempt to retrieve their prey. Additionally, offering live, fast-moving insects like crickets or locusts is essential for regular enrichment. Chasing these insects not only provides mental stimulation but also helps them burn calories while hunting. This active lifestyle supports both their physical health and mental well-being, contributing to a happy and healthy ackie monitor.

Understanding your ackie monitor's behavior is crucial when caring for any monitor lizard, regardless of their size. Although small, ackies belong to the Varanus genus, a group of monitor lizards known for their mildly venomous saliva. While their bite is usually harmless, it’s best to avoid being bitten, as there’s always a chance of an allergic reaction. Building a strong and positive relationship with your ackie is key to handling them safely and confidently.

One of the first behaviors to observe is how your ackie reacts when you approach. Do they come straight to the front of the enclosure to greet you? This can provide valuable insight into their comfort level and trust in you.

Handling -

Ackie monitors are intelligent and curious creatures, making them relatively easy to train and get into routines. Building trust takes time and patience, but with consistent effort, they can become receptive to handling. Younger Ackies often respond well to positive reinforcement, such as tong training, which can help create a bond and establish trust.

The first step in training is simply getting the Ackie accustomed to your presence. Start by placing your hand near the Ackie while it is resting or basking. Avoid touching the lizard or making direct eye contact—this can appear threatening. Keep your hand in place for about 20 seconds, then slowly withdraw it. Repeat this process daily as a part of the training routine. Over time, the Ackie will begin to associate your presence with safety.

During this initial phase, regular cleaning and maintenance of the enclosure are essential. Not only does this keep the environment healthy, but it also introduces your scent into the Ackie's habitat, further helping it grow familiar with you.

Once the Ackie becomes comfortable with your presence, you can move on to food training. This step should also remain a positive experience for the lizard. Food training doesn't have to happen during every feeding session, but aim for at least every other feeding. Start by selecting food items the Ackie enjoys, such as wax worms, dubia roaches, or other appropriate prey.

Using tongs, hold the food close enough for the Ackie to smell it. Once it detects the food, it will typically show interest and approach. Allow the Ackie to focus on the food, but don't let it go into a frenzy. This step stimulates the Ackie mentally, keeping it in a more controlled and "thinking" state rather than a reactive feeding mode. When the Ackie takes the food, gently and slowly move your hand closer while it eats. At this point, most Ackies will tolerate light strokes on their back without reacting negatively.

Continue this gradual training until the Ackie becomes comfortable with being touched even after finishing its food. If the lizard moves away, avoid chasing it. Instead, let your hand remain in the position where you were stroking for about 20 seconds, giving the Ackie time to recognize you as non-threatening. Then, calmly withdraw your hand from the enclosure.

The next step involves preparing the Ackie to take food directly from your hand. By this stage, the previous training techniques should have established a positive association with you, making this step easier. Begin with a slow-moving prey item, such as a wax worm, to minimize the chance of unpredictable behavior, like chasing fast-moving prey. Hold your hand flat, bridging the space between the enclosure and the room. Use tongs to present the food, allowing the Ackie to catch the scent. Once the Ackie approaches, carefully place the food on your palm. If you've built sufficient trust, the Ackie will confidently eat from your hand. After eating, the lizard will often return to its enclosure, but it may choose to linger on your hand or explore further.

By consistently reinforcing these behaviors, you can eventually handle your Ackie without fear or hesitation. Keep in mind, however, that individual personalities vary—some Ackies may take longer to trust than others. Always remain cautious, as Ackies are monitor lizards and have the potential to bite if startled, which can cause injury. When handling your pet, ensure doors are closed, have food ready, and maintain a calm and patient approach. With time and effort, you can build a strong and trusting bond with your Ackie.

Day and Night Cycle

Providing your Ackie Monitor with a consistent day and night cycle is essential for their well-being. A standard schedule of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness works well. However, if you want to replicate their natural environment more closely, refer to the chart below for details on their natural light cycles in the wild. For this example, I’ve chosen Newman, a location within their native range. During Australia’s summer months (October to March), daylight averages between 14 to 16 hours. In the winter months (April to September), daylight hours decrease slightly, averaging between 13 to 14 hours.

Graph from www.timeanddate.com

Common Health Issues

There are numerous reports online of ackies experiencing respiratory issues. In many cases, these problems can be avoided by housing them in properly designed enclosures and ensuring they have access to varying humidity levels, allowing them to regulate themselves effectively.

Another frequent concern is shedding difficulties. Ackies are prone to stuck shed due to their high-temperature and low-humidity environment above ground. To address this, identify the area where your ackie burrows most often and place a dark container underground filled with damp sphagnum moss or similar substrate. This setup will help increase the humidity in their tunnel or burrow. If shedding issues persist, you can use shedding aid ointments to gently remove stuck shed. When in doubt, consult a veterinarian for professional advice.

Cleaning -

Regular maintenance keeps your enclosure clean and your pet healthy. Spot clean the enclosure as soon as you notice any feces. Use a spray bottle to remove waste from décor immediately. Aim to thoroughly clean at least one item in the enclosure each week, and wipe down the sides with antibacterial or reptile-safe disinfectants, such as F10. Replace the substrate as needed to maintain a fresh and hygienic environment.

Brumation -

Ackies typically do not undergo a true brumation phase, as the regions they inhabit rarely drop below 14°C, even during the coldest winter months. While they may experience a slight slowdown in activity, it’s not as pronounced as in other lizard species.

Avalability -

In the United Kingdom, ackie monitors are relatively easy to acquire. They can often be found through hobbyist breeders or occasionally in pet shops. In 2024, you can expect to pay between £150 and £450, depending on coloration and location. That said, bargains can sometimes be found—I’ve seen an adult sold for as little as £40. Yellow ackies tend to be more common and are typically priced lower, while red ackies are more expensive. I recommend checking Morph Market for availability, as it’s a reliable platform. Additionally, due to Australia’s export laws, all ackie monitors in the UK are captive-bred, which is fantastic for ensuring the species' sustainability.

When purchasing an ackie monitor, it’s crucial to research the seller. Are they reputable? Do they prioritize the welfare of the animal, or are they simply looking to make a profit? While pet shops can sometimes be a safer option, there are also many excellent breeders on Morph Market. Personally, I bought my healthy ackie monitor, Jangles, from N&M Reptiles, and I can’t recommend them enough. They were incredibly knowledgeable and genuinely cared about the home their animals were going to.

Morphs -

Ackie monitors come in two distinct morphs: the red morph and the yellow morph. The red ackie is characterized by a striking red undertone to its spots, making it the rarer of the two. This rarity often translates to a higher price, with red ackies sometimes costing up to £300 more than their yellow counterparts. On the other hand, the yellow ackie is more commonly available and is typically more affordable. Adult yellow ackies start at around £150, with juveniles often priced even lower.

References -

Gallery -

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